I think there are some misleading (or unclear) statements made.
The news is not good: not only is whatever you are recording to SSD (or working on) apt to get broken but so too is the hardware.
This is more likely to happen with a spinning disk, than with an SSD. Now, by "SSD" do you mean a SATA (AHCI) SSD, or do you mean a NVME SSD? OLD SATA SSD are far more likely ti fail (for more than one reason), then those less than about 5 ears old. The same is true for spinning disks. NVME SSD is new enough that they generally don't have problems.
Now, I will state, that any drive, that survives the first 6 months, is probably good for 10 years (if properly handled). SSD does not have the vibration, or dropping, problem that can affect spinning disks. There are always exceptions.
My plan during work sessions: load RAM Drive with files being developed, do work, then save new file versions back to the SSD. Which seems likely to go a lot better if I had an UPS minding my back.
An UPS has its place, but don't bet on it "saving your work". There are many other reasons why you can lose it. Again, is it a SATA SSD, or a NVME SSD? NVME SSD will operate near the speed of a RAMDISK, without the problem of losing everything if the power goes off (or many other things). A modern SSD (either kind) will likely last 30 years. Using the RAMDISK, is likely to extend the SSD life by about 3 months. Other things are more likely fail first.
The last thing you need is to check the quality of the power supply for the computer you are getting, no matter how much you protect the computer if its power supply goes fut you can lose all your work which is why I am a great advocate of using a NAS box with raid disks to store everything.
A NAS box is simply another storage medium. Until your work is copied to it, there is an exposure to losing it (even a NAS box can fail). If you "build your own", you can select a PSU. If you buy a complete box, you get what you get. In either case, it can fail (usually if it lasts 6 months, it is good for 10 years).
Volt-Amps, check -- power factor and that good stuff.
Interesting information, but it tells you nothing about how long it will keep your system powered. Each system quotes power usage, but that is mostly if it is fully loaded. I doubt if any system ever comes close to what they quote. <more below>
I routinely add end-of-session backups onto Kingston 32/64GB USB MSD sticks. Mind, given what I hear about SSDs, let's make that "2x backups".
Well, as mentioned, USB sticks are notoriously unreliable. Do not buy cheap ones, but the expensive ones are not much better. Personally, I find that Kingston sticks are okay, but they are SLOW. I got a couple of PATRIOT brand sticks, that seem to be better than most. I probably won't buy any more sticks. Get an SSD enclosure. The biggest problem, with USB, is the Type A connector, especially when using USB 3. Type C connectors are far better.
I gather you have found APC/Schneider worthy of your trust.
I have two APC units. They have been very good (but this reminds me that I need to test them). The biggest exposure is battery failure (they don't last forever, and it depends on how much they have been used). <more below>
As SSDs apparently can be damaged by power failures/surges, I plan double backups to USB sticks, good quality ones.
Any hardware can be damaged by power failures/surges. Make sure that you have SURGE protection (usually part of an UPS), even if you don't have an UPS.
Would that rate as safe enough for archiving?
Personally, I prefer SEAGATE disks (internal, or external), but I have started using CRUCIAL SATA SSD for performance, and so far they are performing well. I have a NVME SSD (Samsung 960 Pro), in my main machine, but the machine is not smart enough to boot from it, so I use a Crucial SATA SSD to boot.
Okay (this is "<below>"). UPS is meant to ride through power problems that last less than about a minute Almost all of them will do that, but the length of time after that first minute will vary by how much power is needed, and how much power is available. One would think that simply pulling the plug, and wait for it to shut down, would be good test for that. First, it is recommended that you do not just pull the plug. That can cause large surges (although the UPS should filter them). Use a power strip, with a switch (or simply turn off the breaker) to test. One warning, is that you reduce the battery life, every time you do that (more than once I had a real power outage, and the UPS turned off immediately, because the battery was at end of life).
Okay, if the power is still off, after one minute, you need to save your work (can be automated), and shut down. I recommend that you do NOT try to start your machine after power is restored, for a few minutes. That avoids a possible second/third power fail. The trick with saving your work, is to be sure that you can do it quickly (two minutes).
You can spend a LOT of money, for a longer time.
Now, I use a couple of (older) APC UPS. One is a BE550G and the other is a BE750G. I use mAPCUPS (it is at HOBBES) to monitor what is happening. That program can be configured to do what needs to be done, even if you are not watching.
Okay, now you need to decide what to connect to an UPS. The UPS that I have have two sections. On is powered from the battery, the other is simply surge protected (and goes off, when there is a power outage). You are interested in what needs to have power, for long enough to get shut down. So, to the battery supplied outlets, you connect the main machine, the screen, and any other devices that are going to cause shut down problems, or start up problems (running CHKDSK on a large USB attached drive can take a long time). Those can include NAS boxes, externally powered USB drives, network hubs, USB, hubs, and so on. If you don't need it to stay on, don't connect it to the battery supplied outlets.
You may notice, that I did not include a lamp (of any kind). You have the screen, that is a good light source. I keep a couple of LED flashlights handy, which I can find using the light from the screen. Some lamps (Fluorescent, especially) cause a lot of electrical noise, and should never be near computer equipment.
Printers can be a bit of a problem. I don't use powered outlets, for them. Generally, they are better off on the surge protected outlets.
That should be enough, for now. Ask questions, if you have any.
