The X10 Component Description

By Armin Schwarz
 * Origin: http://home.att.net/~LPAInfo
 * Written by: Lone Peak Automation
 * Date created: 17 Jun 1999
 * Last updated: 21 January 2004

This document is an attempt to describe some of the features of the X10 components. Hopefully it will help you to decide if some of these devices will be helpful in automating your home (and worth spending your hard earned money for). Only devices I own and have tested out myself will be described here. Please read the HOUSE/2 and X10 FAQ at http://home.att.net/~LPAInfo/h2andx10.html to find out more about what X10 or HOUSE/2 is. This document is under construction so stop by from time to time for updates.

Please note: I'm not in any way connected to any brand names mentioned, nor do I endorse these products. I simply provide software for these devices that may be useful and practical.

CP290 Controller
This controller is over 15 years old and I think the first X10 controller ever made. It's a small console with eight toggle switches on it to control lights. It connects to the computer through a serial cable and with the proper software, you can turn lights on/off/dim interactively or program up to 128 timer events into it so it will run without the computer connected to it. The CP290 has an internal clock (HH:MM format) and the date is set as weekdays only. This limits the programming to seven days only, after that the events repeat. During power failures, the clock is backed up with a 9V battery. The CP290 does report toggle switch or internal timed events activation to the computer, however, external X10 signals from motion detectors or transceivers are not reported to the computer. HOUSE/290 fully supports the CP290 and extends it's functionality by providing automatic weekly refresh of timers if you want to set lights to follow dawn/dusk for example. If you own the CP290, hang on to it, it still does it's job. If you don't own any controllers, you probably want to purchase the CM11A listed below as you get more features for a lower price.

CM11A Controller
This device is a fully featured programmable logic controller. It's designed for stand-alone or interactive operation. You must use a computer to program timers but once programmed, it can run stand-alone. The CM11A contains an internal clock (HH:MM:SS format) and a day-of-the-year counter. This allows you to pre-program timers for a full year before the events are repeated. During power failures, the clock is backed up with two AAA size batteries and an internal counter keeps track of the battery life. The CM11A is connected to the computer with a serial cable. Programming is done by defining timer on/off times and date ranges. This unit also allows to execute macros. Macros are events that are triggered by other X10 events, so for example when the CM11A detects a A1 ON, you could automatically execute A2 OFF, wait 5 minutes, then do B10 DIM 50% etc. Depending on complexity of events, you can program up to 115 timers into the CM11A. This is limited by the 1024 bytes of erasable memory the controller offers, only one of two short-comings of this controller. (The other short-coming is the latch-up problem. See the HOUSE/2 and X10 FAQ at the link listed at the start of this document.)

The CM11A is a two-way controller, it detects external X10 events and reports them to the computer. This enables to log the events to a file, provided the computer is running. Unfortunately, not all modules report when they are activated. See module description below for these limitations. The CM11A controller is available as a kit by the name ActiveHome directly through X10 (or possibly HomeDirector from IBM). The kit contains two modules and two remotes besides the CM11A controller and offers a great way to get started. I have seen the ActiveHome kit go for as little as $37 so keep an eye on www.x10.com if you want to get into home automation. HOUSE/2 supports the CM11A controller.

The FireCracker
This is a brand new device, very small, and plugs into your serial port. It's designed as a pass-through device, you could connect another serial device to it without giving up a COM port. I have not tested this so I have no idea how well this piggy-back configuration works. The FireCracker appears to be only an interactive device, you need the computer to operate devices, it can't be run stand-alone. The FireCracker only transmits wireless RF signals, so you need the TM751 or RR501 Transceiver to get things to turn on. The FireCracker will therefore not communicate directly through the power lines or receive X10 events from any other device, be it RF or not. The RF range is claimed to be up to 100 feet.

TM751 Transceiver
This module is a combination RF receiver / appliance module. It receives wireless RF signals through it's antenna and turns on the on-board appliance module. This same signal is then sent out over the power lines and turns on other modules with the same house and device code and also indicates to the CM11A controller that the module has been turned on. YOU CAN NOT USE HOUSE/2 WITH THE CM11A TO TURN ON THE TM751. This transceiver does not have a power line signal receiver like the RR501 does. This module also has a local toggle button to turn it on/off. Activating the toggle will not send out a signal over the power lines, so it is impossible to keep track of on/off status with software. The TM751 appliance module is not a two-way module - you can not request status like it is possible with the RR501. The TM751 can only be setup as the first device of any of the sixteen house codes, i.e. A1 through P1. You can not assign device codes other than 1. The TM751 will also turn on any other module with the same house code and device code 2 through 16. For example, if the TM751 is set to house code A, then the command A1 ON from a keychain remote will turn on the on-board appliance module. The command A16 ON from a keychain remote, will turn on (through the TM751) another module set to A16. Use keychain remote, motion detector or the FireCracker to activate the TM751. Claimed range is 100 feet, but my experience shows 60-80 feet is more realistic.

RR501 Transceiver
This module is a combination RF receiver / two-way appliance module. It receives wireless RF signals through it's antenna and turns on the on-board appliance module. This same signal is then sent out over the power lines and turns on other modules with the same house and device code and also indicates to the CM11A controller that the module has been turned on. You can also activate the module over power line signals with HOUSE/2 and the CM11A. This module has a local toggle button to turn it on/off. Activating the toggle will not send out a signal over the power lines. Because the on-board module is a two-way, you can use a program like HOUSE/2 to query the on/off status. The RR501 can be setup as device 1 or 9 of any of the sixteen house codes, i.e. A1 through P1 or A9 through P9. The RR501 will also turn on any other module with the same house code and device code 1 through 16. For example, if the RR501 is set to house code A1, then the command A1 ON from a keychain remote will turn on the on-board appliance module. The command A16 ON from a keychain remote, will turn on (through the RR501) another module set to A16. Use keychain remote, motion detector or the FireCracker to activate the RR501. Claimed range is 100 feet, but my experience shows 60-80 feet is more realistic. The on-board two-way appliance module, wireless RF or power line activation makes the RR501 quite versatile.

5. MS12A Occupancy Sensor/Motion Detector
This device is completely wireless and can be mounted (indoors only) anywhere you desire, just what you want for a motion detector. It operates on two AA batteries, sends out RF signals and therefore requires the transceivers RR501 or TM751 to operate lights. That's the good side, now...

Operation of this device is a bit complicated and confusing and it takes some doing to find the right application for it. To better understand how it works, one must realize that it senses the ambient light and if it is bright, motion will NOT be detected or reported. Worst, if you control the light in the same room as the detector, it will interfere with the operation of the motion detector. To further complicate things, the motion detector sends out a dusk/dawn signal whenever it gets bright (OFF signal) or dark (ON signal). This feature is handy to turn on a light at dusk and turn it off at dawn. If that's your application, make sure the sensor is pointed straight to the light source, out a window for example. If the sensor is located in a dark corner, it is possible that the sensor triggers at random, even during daytime.

Besides reporting dusk/dawn, this detector obviously also sends out a signal whenever it detects motion. If motion is detected (and it's dark), a ON signal is sent out once only and the detector becomes inactive for 6-9 minutes. After this delay, a OFF signal is emitted and motion detection is enabled again. You could use this to turn on/off lights, but remember that the lights will interfere with the motion detector if in the same room. When the light turns on in this case, you will immediately get a dusk event. The time delay is fixed, it can't be changed and prevents the flooding of X10 events onto your controller.

House and device codes can be programmed by pressing two mini push buttons repeatedly. Because this unit runs off batteries, the programmed codes will revert to the default A1 (motion) and A2 (dusk/dawn) whenever you remove the batteries. Choose the assigned codes within the top range of the X10 address space (A-D, 1-4) for easier and faster re-programming. Assigning the device number sets the motion device code. The dusk/dawn device code will be the next device code. For example, if the motion code is set to E3 then the dusk/dawn code will be E4.

You can modify this motion detector to defeat the dusk/dawn feature and make it report motion any time. Simply remove the four screws and carefully remove the cover. In the center, you will see a small clear glass bulb at the end of two wires insulated with clear tubing. This is the light sensor. Get some black electrical tape and place it completely around the glass bulb only. Replace the cover and hopefully you noted which size screws go where. The two longer screws go along the bottom of the sensor. Your sensor will now report motion at a minimum rate of every 6-9 minutes and you can assign a macro to the ON (motion) or OFF (end of time-out) events and have a fairly inexpensive and reliable motion detector. Dusk/dawn commands are not reported if the sensor is modified but to be on the safe side, don't assign multiple motion device codes adjacent to each other.

I'm currently testing four units with the mentioned modification with good results. One of the sensors appears to send out a double motion ON command, but that does not pose any significant problems so far.

It takes some tinkering to get this device to work and I hope this description has not confused the issue any further :-)